The Schism Jacket - The Half And Half Frenetic Dinner Jacket
My tailor was short of work over Christmas so I said to him whilst it was quiet in January to knock out a jacket for the window display in 2021. I wanted something thought provoking but also it wasn't quite so, there was another bit to it. There was a last piece of a cashmere wool from an English loom that my friend Aman had in his warehouse in England. He was selling me some wool for a bespoke customer, a navy hospack, and he just happened to have it on file but there wasn't enough to make a full jacket, just enough for trousers.
I did not need trousers, and certainly not in white, but its such a rare thing to fund a good cashmere and merino wool in optical white, so I took it.
It took a little time to gestate but there was a piece of fabric from what I call my 'celebration' pile, fabrics which are usually used for bow ties for events and for peacocking. This one particular fabric I had which was never going to be used up as bow ties, owing to the fact that I had bought for metreage than I needed because of minimum quantities, but could be used as material for an evening jacket. Only to do an evening jacket in that one material would be way too over the top. The material, and I don't know exactly why, reminded me of Klimt's backgrounds in his paintings and then also, and again, I have no idea how my mind works, of Martin Sharp Nimrod posters from the early 1980's and the jazz mural theme of the institutional restaurant in Woollahra, The Bistro Moncur.
I put it all together as a schism of sorts, a little like my gemini star sign, we are not one thing. In this jacket was the calm purity of the white, and then the frenetic patterns that one might see in jazz music, lofty, wild, mercurial, in the other fabric. And we did it in a wide notched lapel with patch pockets, a segue from traditional cuts for dinner jackets. The only thing I regret is that we used white buttons. For some reason they detract from the finish of it all, so I will now search for something a little more contemporary.
Overall, together the contrasts worked and it was marvelled at in the window for the weeks that followed. We can of course make you a jacket in the same manner, only it won't be in the same fabrics as we used up the last of both. For custom orders please call +61413140994